Little Phoenix Crochet Pattern (No sew!)
Known for its legendary ability to rise again from the ashes, the phoenix is a well-known symbol of resilience, renewal, and transformation. It’s also secretly . . . or maybe not so secretly (considering it’s one of my tattoos) . . . a favorite bird of mine!
So for the second bird in this series, here’s how to crochet a little no-sew phoenix!
This is the second bird pattern in my no-sew crochet mini bird series. Check out the free no-sew eagle pattern here!
This pattern is written based off of the colors and the color changes I made to create my phoenix, but since the phoenix is an imaginary bird, definitely feel free to get creative with the colors and the color changes.
You can even try crocheting one out of scrap yarn! What better way to capture the rebirth and spirit of the phoenix than by creating one from leftover yarn and giving those scraps a new life?
Plus, the mini size means you don’t need much of each color, and you can easily switch things up to use whatever yarn you have on hand. There’s really no rule for what color each part needs to be.
A combination of red, orange, and yellow creates that classic fiery phoenix look, but you can also experiment with other colors for a completely different magical vibe.
I sketched out so many different color combinations before finally settling on this one. The possibilities are wonderfully endless!
Like the eagle, you can crochet this phoenix as an ornament, a keychain, a pocket buddy, a desk buddy, a quick make for markets/shops, gifts, or just a no-sew mini project for yourself.
Make it smaller by using a smaller hook, tighter tension, or thinner yarn. Or you can also make it bigger by doing the opposite.
So let’s get into the pattern!
A PDF version of this pattern is also available on Patreon.
Unless otherwise indicated, this pattern is designed to be crocheted in continuous rounds (or spirals).
Terms of Use:
This crochet pattern is designed by me (The Mary Jay). Do not copy, sell, duplicate (to distribute) the contents of this crochet pattern in any format without permission.
If you’d like to share this pattern, please only do so by linking to this blog post or sharing where to find its original source. Do not copy any part of the pattern to post, share, or publish anywhere else without written permission.
You’re absolutely welcome to sell the plushies you make using this pattern provided that you give pattern credit to The Mary Jay (and/or @themaryjay). I’d also super appreciate if you’re able to include where to find this pattern (www.themaryjay.com) when possible.
Respecting these terms helps me to continue creating and offering free patterns like this to you, and I truly appreciate your support!
p.s. If you post your plushie, tag me @themaryjay on Instagram, Tik Tok, YouTube etc. I’d love to see it and hype you up!
Skills and Abbreviations (In U.S. terms)
MR= Magic Ring (Magic Circle)
SC= Single Crochet
SL ST= Slip Stitch
HDC= Half Double Crochet
DC= Double Crochet
INC= Increase (2 SC in the same stitch)
HDC INC= Half Double Crochet Increase (2 HDC in the same stitch)
DC INC= Double Crochet Increase (2 DC in the same stitch)
DEC= Decrease
FLO= Front Loop Only
BLO= Back Loop Only
CH= Chain
FO= Fasten off (Recommended: Invisible Fasten Off)
R= Round/Row
Change Color & Slip Knot
Bonus Skills Explained:
Turn= Flip your work to crochet the row in the opposite direction.
Standing Single Crochet= Start by making a slip knot and placing it on your hook. Then insert your hook into the indicated stitch/placement and make a SC as usual (pull the yarn through the stitch, yarn over and pull the yarn through both loops on the hook.)
Pull up a loop= Insert your hook into the indicated stitch/placement. Place the working yarn on your hook and pull it through, creating a loop on your hook.
Note: You can also choose to make a slip knot to pull through instead of just the working yarn. The slip knot can help with stability, but I personally don’t prefer it as I find it sometimes creates a bumpier finish. But if you’re struggling to keep the yarn in place while making the subsequent chains, the slip knot can help anchor it better.
Materials:
(Based on what I used to make the phoenix in the sample photos)
Disclosure: The links to the materials below are affiliate links, which means I may earn a small commission at no extra cost to you if you use them to make a purchase. This is an additional way that helps support my work and lets me continue to make free content for you.
Super Bulky Weight Yarn (#6) in Red, Orange, and Yellow
I used around 13 yards of Orange, around 11 yards of Red, and less than 2 yards of Yellow. Feel free to get creative with the color changes to use up the yarn you have.
The yarn I used is from Premier: Basix Chenille Brights Collection (I believe the shades were: Hot Coral, Tangerine, and Lemon)
Note: The “Red” looks more like a darker orange in some photos, but it’s still what I’m referring to when I write “Red.”
For all other materials, you can find most of what I use on my Amazon storefront.
Two 12 mm Safety Eyes (Warning: Safety eyes can be choking hazards and are generally not recommended when crocheting plushies for young children/pets. You can replace the “safety eyes” with an alternative.)
5.5 mm Crochet Hook (using my brand new Clover Amour Hook!)
Stuffing
Scissors
Yarn Needle
Pins & Stitch Markers (Optional)
p.s. If you’ve been following my little bird series, you might notice the listed hook size is 0.5 mm larger than what I used for the eagle!
After hearing many good things, I recently switched to Clover Amour hooks (linked in the listed materials), which glides much smoother and crochets tighter than my previous hooks. (Apparently, my previous hook had also gotten a bit scratched up . . . which, in retrospect, might have also had an impact!)
Would you believe that this phoenix is actually a little smaller than the eagle I crocheted with my old 5 mm hook?
Sometimes even similarly listed “hook sizes” can produce different results from brand to brand!
After trying both the 5 mm and 5.5 mm Clover Amour hooks , I’ve decided the 5.5 mm is more for me. Of course, feel free to use whichever hook size you prefer with the yarn you’re using! But, if you’re making a set, I definitely recommend using the same hook size for both birds (unlike me!)
The head and body are crocheted as one continuous piece to form the “base.” The following color changes are written based off of the phoenix in the photos, but again, feel free to get creative with the colors or the color changes!
Head:
Using Orange
R1: 6 SC in a MR (6)
R2: [INC] x 6 (12)
R3: [SC, INC] x 6 (18)
R4-6: 18 SC (18) 3 Rounds
Tip: Place a stitch marker into the back loop of the next stitch to make it easier to find later.
R7: In FLO: [SC, DC, SC] x 6 (18)
Invisible Fasten Off (or SL ST into the first stitch and FO). Weave in ends.
Note: Connecting the round and fastening off here help create a more seamless finish to the ruffles. We’ll still be able to crochet the body continuously from the head by joining new yarn with a standing single crochet (more on this in the “Body” section or above in “Bonus Skills Explained”), or you can use another join method if you prefer. However, if you’d rather continue crocheting directly and don’t mind having a more visible jog , you can also just change colors and proceed directly to R8.
Body:
Using Red
In the next round (R8), we’ll be crocheting the body in continuation from the head by starting with a standing single crochet. To do this, use red yarn (or the body color of your choice) to make a slip knot and place it on your hook. Then insert your hook into the first back loop of R6 (where we placed the stitch marker) and make the first SC of the round. Continue crocheting the rest of the round as usual.
R8: In BLO of R6: 18 SC (18)
R9: 4 SC. Then in FLO of one stitch, make [SL ST, HDC, DC, CH 1, DC, HDC, SL ST]. Tip: Place a stitch marker into the leftover back loop to make it easier to find in the next round.
Change Color to Orange.
8 SC
Change Color to Red.
In the FLO of one stitch, make [SL ST, HDC, DC, CH 1, DC, HDC, SL ST]. Tip: Place a stitch marker into the leftover back loop to make it easier to find in the next round.
4 SC (30)
In the previous round (R9), the stitches worked in the FLO (aka the stitches written in brackets [ ]) form the wings of the bird. In this next round, do not crochet in these stitches that form the wings. Instead, when you reach each wing, crochet in the back loop that was left unworked in the previous round.
R10: 2 INC, 2 SC,
Change Color to Orange.
1 SC in the BLO of R8 under the wing and where we placed the stitch marker.
8 SC.
1 SC in the BLO of R8 under the wing and where we placed the stitch marker.
Change Color to Red.
2 SC, 2 INC (22)
R11-12: 6 SC
Change Color to Orange.
10 SC
Change Color to Red.
6 SC (22) 2 Rounds
Attach the eyes between R4 and 5 around 4 stitches apart.
Add stuffing and continue stuffing as you go.
For the rest of the body, [SC, DEC] and repeat until you only have 8 stitches left.
FO leaving a tail for sewing. Finish stuffing. Use the yarn tail to sew the plushie closed.
Tail:
Using Orange
The tail is crocheted directly onto the back of the body. To do this, start with a slip knot on your hook.
R1: Between R11 and 12, insert your hook into the back of the bird and make 4 SC that are centered on the back of the bird (4).
R2: CH 1 and Turn, SC, 2 INC, SC (6)
Change Color to Yellow.
R3: CH 2 and Turn, DC, SL ST , [DC INC, SL ST] x 2 (8)
FO and weave in ends.
Beak:
Using Yellow
The beak is crocheted directly onto the face between R4 and 5 between the eyes. You can find a photo reference on these next three steps of the beak in the eagle pattern!
Find the center point between the eyes and move one stitch to the side. Pull up a loop.
CH 2 and then in the second chain from the hook, make a SC.
Insert your hook into the next stitch between R4 and 5 (this should be the stitch on the other side of the center point) and make a SL ST.
FO and weave in ends.
Feet:
Using Yellow, embroider the feet onto R12 and R13 around 2 stitches apart from one another.
To embroider each foot, start by sewing a horizontal line between R11 and 12 that’s around two stitches wide and roughly lined up to one of the eyes.
From inside of the plushie, bring the yarn down to exit two rounds below the center of the line. Loop the yarn around that first horizontal line and pull it down to create a “v-shape.”
Then loop the yarn around one more time to create a line down the middle of the “v-shape.”
p.s. If making the “v-shape” is confusing, you can also just sew three lines that all meet at the same point at the bottom.
Crest:
Using Red
Like the beak, the crest is crocheted directly onto the head. A picture reference for the next 5 steps can be found below.
Insert your hook under R2 on the back side of the head. The hook should be going from beneath R2 and exiting above it. Pull up a loop.
CH 5 and starting in the third chain from the hook: HDC INC, 2 SL ST
Insert your hook into R1 (the next round up on the back side of the head) and make a SL ST.
CH 4 and starting in the third chain from the hook: HDC INC, SL ST
SL ST into R1 again in the same spot that we made the SL ST in step 3.
FO and weave in ends.
Congratulations! You did it!
Thank you for following along with my pattern and taking the time to crochet a phoenix!
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